The Pinnacles, Kauaeranga Valley- Coromandel

Driving up the gravel road, along valley bottom to the beginning of our walk, you could see that there is a wildness to this place. A clear river flows and thick bush covers the valley sides. We drove for a long time on the unsealed road, past the DoC (Department of Conservation) visitor centre and past many DoC Campsites. Tramping tracks lead off in different directions from the road but we were heading to the road end to begin our walk from there, like many others.

The Pinnacles walk at the foot of the Coromandel Peninsula is a popular walk with tourists and Kiwis alike. It was voted as one of the 101 must-dos for Kiwis and the tracks that lead to the Pinnacles hut and neighbouring summit are never void of visitors. Luckily for us, we arrived so early at the beginning of the walk that we could park with ease. The starting point for this walk is at the very end of the road, next to the Trestle View Campsite. A lot of people that do the walk up the Pinnacles do it over two days. They do the first leg up to the Pinnacles Hut run by DoC, and then climb to the summit and back down again the following day. We, however, would be walking up and down in the same day- leaving early to have plenty of daylight.

After a quick check that we had everything, we were off. The track is very well maintained by DoC as it is such a popular walk. It begins with a very gradual climb as the track hugs the side of the valley. In the early hours, the track was quiet except for the occasional Tui and the river flowing in the background. A peaceful place. However, this area was once a hive of activity. If I’d have been walking up this track over a hundred years ago, the sounds of the Kauaeranga Valley would have been of chopping, sawing and the calls of ‘TIMBER!’. See, the Kauaerange Valley was the site of a huge logging industry. Huge in it’s scale of industry and in the trees themselves. The majestic Kauri tree was highly prized by Maori for it’s straight and voluminous trunk that would be used to make Waka (traditional canoes). However, once the Europeans saw how truly magnificent these trees were, they quickly begun clearing huge swathes of bush and making the most of the colossal amounts of timber available. This led to a network of tracks and dams along the valley all designed to shift wood from the places up the valley where it was felled, down to the valley bottom, ready to be shipped of to nearby Auckland to make villas or ships.

The bush that can be seen on the walk is not the original forest that the early settlers would have encountered, but a regeneration that has occured since the last of the axes and saws left the valley. Remnants of the original giants still occur on the walk however, and not long after the start of the walk we pass by a giant Totara tree. It gives a glimpse at what the first humans in these parts would have encountered.

The path continued to climb along the true left of the stream until we reached an impressive suspension bridge. A long stretch of steel and wood took us over the river below. Gradually, we began to get glimpses of how much height we had gained.

The track continued to climb until we reached our first rest stop at Hyrdo Camp Junction. It’s a small track junction with a few logs to sit on next to a stream. As good a place as any to stop for a rest. It was nice to see a tomtit darting around the clearing as we sat and munched on our snacks. The sound of bellbird and wax eye had been the soundtrack to the walk so far, and it was good to see a real diversity of birdlife along the way.

There was still more climbing to be done. We left our snacking spot and immediately began to ascend again. This time, however, we weren’t climbing too long before the track levelled out. We walked over a plateaued area that gave us our first real taste of the views we could expect from the top.

It’s straight out of Jurassic Park. Dense forest on a canvas of gnarly rock formations. It’s as close to the set of the Spielberg sagas as I’ve ever seen. Obviously, there were no dinosaurs in sight as we headed to the Pinnacles Hut for another rest and to polish off our lunches, but, looking out at the expanse of green I felt like I wouldn’t have been surprised to have seen one.

The Pinnacles Hut isn’t what most people have in mind when they think of a New Zealand backcountry hut. Created and maintained by DoC, it’s a lot more fancy than the small historic hunting bivvies that crop up across the NZ wilderness. Large dorms, kitchens, toilets, communal areas and even a barbeque! We weren’t staying here the night, but I feel it would have been quite comfortable if we had. After a nosey around and something else to eat, we were ready to tackle the last section of the climb.

From the Pinnacles Hut to the top of the Pinnacles isn’t very far, but it does involve a lot of stairs, a couple of ladders and the last section up to the summit is somewhat of a scramble. With each step though, the pain in the thighs is rewarded in the form of spectacular views.

I thought that I might find the ladders that lead you to the summit a bit of an eye sore. Although, I actually found then quite fun and a real different feature for a day walk. Scrambling up rock and holding onto branches we eventually emerged at the summit.

Some places aren’t done justice by photo or description and the summit of the Pinnacles is one of them. I could barely take in the 360 degree views and the scale of the landscape. All I can say is that we were very grateful to have had a clear day to have seen this panoramic scene.

With the summit beginning to get a little crowded, we decided to start making our way down. It was easier going down and this time we descended the stairs facing out at the view.

It was a long tramp back to the car. Well worth every second though. There is an alternate route that you can take back where you fork off at the Hydro Camp Junction via the Billygoat Track. We, though, decided that we’d go back the way we’d gone up as we just didn’t feel up to the extra couple of miles that the alternate route adds on.

This celebrity of a New Zealand tramping track turns out to be worthy of it’s fame and popularity. I often feel cynical about ‘must dos’, but the pinnacles walk is just that. There are endless amounts of tracks and routes through the Coromandel Range. Many will provide equal opportunity for spectacular views with less people and more isolation. I think though, being around a whole host of different people all partaking in the right-of-passage hike to the same spot in the landscape is quite special. I think for anyone wanting to get a quick taste of what the Coromandel has to offer, this walk would be perfect.

On Foot Note


Map Used: BB35- Hikuai

Kauaeranga Valley DoC

101 Must-Do’s For Kiwis

Rangitoto Island, Auckland- Summit and Coastal Track

Late one evening, a couple begin to argue. No ordinary couple, they are children of the Fire Gods and ‘Tapua’ (supernatural of sorts). In their frustration they curse Mahuika, the Fire Goddess. Once Mahuika gets wind of this, she goes to Mataoho, the God of Earthquakes and Volcanoes. She asks him to punish the couple for their cursing by destroying their mainland home in Auckland- a bit harsh if you ask me. So, Mataoho gets to work and swallows up the couples home and creates what is now Lake Pupuke on Auckland’s North Shore. In turn, from all the eruptions, Rangitoto Island is born. An island worthy of the dramatic myths that surround it.

I remember seeing the island for the first time and thinking that it looked like the lair of a super villain in a hollywood film. Unique and instantly recognizable by it’s perfectly conical shape, it’s a landscape that stirs the imagination. Rangitoto’s history is rich, and in geological terms, it’s recent.

View of Auckland City from Rangitoto

It was with childish excitement that Elishea (my partner) and I stepped off the ferry from downtown Auckland and headed out for a day of walking, bird-watching and exploring on Rangitoto Island. The plan for the day was to head directly from the wharf and up to the summit of the island. Then, we’d descend the eastern side of Rangitoto, eventually following the coastal path around the island’s perimeter and back to the wharf for the ferry home. This meant as soon as we got off the ferry, a reasonably steep track for a few kilometres.

Rangitoto is a volcano. A new arrival in geological terms too. It came into being only 600 years ago through a series of eruptions, making it the youngest island in the Hauraki Gulf. A landscape of lava fields and strange vegetation make for an otherworldly island escape only 25 mins ferry from Auckland City. It’s this lava rock that made for a hot ramble to the summit. The sharp black volcanic rock makes a home for an interesting array of specially adapted plants- that expertly cope with the hot, heat absorbing rock. Our ability to deal with the heat was somewhat less expertly and the climb to the summit was particularly warm as the heat radiated from the ground.

Fields of lava close to the base of Rangitoto

After passing through the sparsely vegetated and rugged lava fields at the base of the island, more and more tree cover appeared as we climbed higher towards the summit. Eventually, the tree cover got so thick you could call it bush. With the denser tree cover came birdsong. A lot of it too.

Angry-looking Fantail

Rangitoto is a pest free island. It means that rare and endangered birds like the saddleback and the curious kaka can live without fear of predation. It also means that people like myself can step on a ferry and within half an hour have the chance to see some beautiful and rare birdlife. That’s exactly what happened. We stopped in a cool and shady spot to enjoy lunch when a cacophony of birdsong began. Some recognizable, like Tui and Fantails, and other not so much. One of the voices that I didn’t recognize was that of the saddleback. A beautiful song by a beautiful bird. I wish I could have gotten a photo, but just to have seen three of them through binoculars made the trip worthwhile alone.


With lunch gone and sore necks from staring at the canopy, we made our way along the last section of track to the summit. Its an impressive sight. A huge bowl carpeted with all manner of trees. Another interesting fact about Rangitoto (of which there are many!) is that it has the largest Pohutukawa forest in the world! The bright-red flowered tree seems to love the coastal and arid environment of the island and their numbers are huge and cover much of Rangitoto.

Summit crater

The crater has a walking track going right around the rim. After taking in views across the crater, we walked around the rim to follow our route that would eventually lead us down the eastern side of Rangitoto.

As we descended from the summit, the landscape changed. Gone was the dense bush from nearer the top, replaced with the rocky, dry lava fields like the beginning of the walk. The track at this point was a wide unsealed road. Like much of the infrastructure on Rangitoto, this road was built by prisoner labour during the 1930’s.

In front of us, as we walked, was the view of Motutapu Island. Motutapu couldn’t be more different to Rangitoto. While Rangitoto is the newest island in the Hauraki Gulf, Motutapu its neighbour, is the oldest. They sit so close to each other that there is a small causeway between the two islands. It’s believed by archeologists that there were Maori living on Motutapu during Rangitoto’s eruptions 600 years ago. We neared our turning point at Islington bay, just before the track heading over to Motutapu.

We then followed the coastal track around Rangitoto, all the way back to the wharf. The coastal track led us past the beautiful Yankee wharf, where several boats bobbed in the shelter of Islington Bay. It provided great views across to Motutapu as we walked along the edge of the island. Then, the coastal route began to be… well… not very coastal.

View over Islington Bay towards Motutapu

The track cuts slightly inland and you begin to follow a winding and more demanding track than the rest of the walk. It’s nothing too crazy, but at the end of a long walk in the heat, it was more work than we expected. I’d definitely say that it requires decent footwear and good concentration to watch where you are putting your feet. The track continued to wind its way through some patches of trees and then spots of more arid open ground before arriving at the small bay where the wharf is.

It’s not a good sign when you see the ferry at the end of the wharf loading the last few passengers and you’re still at the other side of the bay. It was the penultimate ferry that we were trying to catch, but as we got to the wharf, the ferry pulled away. Feeling slightly disheartened at missing the ferry we sat down to decide on what to do for the last hour before the next one.

It turned out that missing that ferry was the best thing that could have happened. The island’s very kind DoC (Department of Conservation) ranger, seeing that we missed the ferry by seconds, took pity on us and offered us a cup of tea and gave us a list of things to do while we waited! This included going for a swim and having a look at the historic ‘baches’ just around the corner from the wharf.

Bach 38 Museum

If we hadn’t have missed that ferry I wouldn’t have got the chance to look around the Bach 38 Museum. This is a small and beautifully kept bach that’s laid out just as it would have been after its completion in 1927. The interior gave a real feel for what these 1920’s and 30’s recreational escapes would have been like. People from the city would make their way over on weekends to escape the hussle and bussle. They may not be the oldest buildings in the world, but the museum paints a very vivid picture about domestic life at that time. I’d recommend spending a few minutes to have a look around the museum if you’re over on the island.

Oystercatcher on the wharf

After a quick swim, it was soon time to get the last ferry. Be aware that if you miss the last ferry back (5 o’clock), it’s a lonely night or a long swim back to the city.

Rangitoto is a real treasure trove. It has an odd but relatively recent history and boasts an array of wildlife and strange landscapes. At $36 each from Auckland City, it’s a day walk for great value if you consider everything you can see in just a day. Remember, there aren’t any shops on the island so you need to bring food and water for the day. Also, do keep a track of the time, as the ferry will leave without you if you’re running late!

Lastly, Rangitoto stays a pest-free island from the hard work by DoC and volunteers. Such a fragile and special place can be severely damaged by any introduction of pests. Please do as the ferry staff say and check your bags and footwear thoroughly. There are also no bins on the island either, so take your litter home too.

On Foot Note


Map used: NZtopo50- BA32- Auckland

Ferry timetables and fares

Bach 38 Museum

Rangitoto DoC